More from Croatia

The Rector's Palace in the early morning hours. I saw a cat run into the building and a dog chase her all the way to the door, but he stopped short of going inside...

26 April 2007

The day of my presentation. I noticed even in the morning that as it came closer I was starting to get nervous—just elevated heart rate and all of that. So I worked hard to get control of myself, really slow down, breathe, and not let it build up into something frantic. It really worked and by the time I got there and gave them my USB stick I was feeling pretty good. I had practiced so much that I felt really confident about my delivery; I was just hoping that my pregnancy brain would not kick in and make me blank out. I met a guy who had also been on the flight from Vienna (he is from there) but I did not remember him from it-- he was also giving a talk. He was nice and we also went back together on the same plane.

I gave my talk, they said they had to adjust the schedule a little bit, and that they would do questions at the end. Right after my talk, one of the conference managers said that there would be a short presentation from a prominent Croatian manufacturer of water treatment supplies. Yet again I had failed to grab the translating headset, because on the schedule there were to be only scientific presentations, all to be in English. I tried to smile encouragingly at this guy as he stood by the podium and showed an informational video for his company. The background was Croatian folk music--- a sort of mandolin-based sound. The presentation video was all in Croatian, and of equipment that I couldn’t even recognize. You got the feeling he’d insisted on being allowed to present to the groups. Unfortunately, I do not feel we are his target audience. It was a room full of scientists and policy people. Even if we were on projects that included purchasing large-scale water treatment systems, I doubt anyone would turn to us for advice on what to buy.

The video featured him, in what I think was his home’s dining room, standing behind the table and chairs. Then there was a shot of what I can only assume were awards and medals that his company has received. Then many shots of what was to me unidentifiable equipment. My best guess is sewage aeration systems… but that is only a guess. After the video he gave a short speech. I again smiled encouragingly, then he concluded and we began the presentations again. That was really the most exciting moment of the morning. There were some nice presentations, and some actually fit with my own work which is what it is all about.

One presentation was not especially on subject, and that was the one about volcanoes. Not sure how he swung an abstract that fit the conference theme “waters in protected areas”—he mentioned crater lakes that form on top of volcanoes, but really only in passing. When I told Mike he said “that’s like the one kid at the science fair who insists on doing the volcano demonstration”—he’s all grown up now. Inevitably there were the two guys that went WAY over time, or tried at least. The session moderator was a real stickler who told them he would take the mic away if they didn’t stop. One Italian presenter kind of laughingly said “no you won’t really” but quieted down after a stern look. The moderator was my hero.

Me in the Monastery courtyard

The courtyard again

27 April 2007

Today was to be the poster presentation day of the conference... but I skipped out for a morning visiting the sights in the old city of Dubrovnik. It is a walled fortress, so things are very compact. As I said in an earlier post it was heavily bombed during the 1990s conflict. Inside a monastery they had ancient relics, frescos, beautiful paintings, and a few saved missile holes and missiles from the war. It was very strange to see it all together. I spent most of the morning walking through the city. It is all created from a beautiful pale yellow/white stone. The tiles were reportedly all once this honey color, but those replaced after the destruction are of a different hue. I awoke early due to a LOUD snorer in the room next to me, and was off to catch a bus to town by 730AM. It was nice to have a quiet city in which to take photos. Soon the tourist buses began to show up and the groups to line up. I visited a monastery, walked around through the market, and climbed up to the city walls to walk around. It was gorgeous. The monastery was filled with 5 different French tour groups who were called to attention every few minutes with a stern "Allo" from their guides. Two nice french gentlemen kindly took a photo of me in the monastery courtyard.

A rooftop

The monastery courtyard from above-- from the city wall

HRVATA

Hrvata is what Croatians call Croatia. I am still not sure how to pronounce all those consanants at the beginning. Fortunately they are very kind to clueless foreigners. I returned about 11:30 last night and went promptly to sleep. My bag did not make it from Vienna, but as I will explain later that was no problem. By that point I was just happy to not have to carry anything extra.
I have so much to tell about my trip, that I will do it over a few postings.

24 April 2007...

started with an early morning, so early that even James was asleep. It was a long morning taking trains and waiting in lines at the airport— I got tired quickly, but I learned a lot about how I will be feeling later this summer when I go with James. Despite overwhelming past evidence, I WILL pack lightly. I must. Carrying my laptop was a major hassle and I know things will be more complex when I have James with me. It was really nice to have a sort of an airport practice run before this summer.

It was tough explaining to people that I wanted to go through security with my water bottle (denied) or to avoid metal detectors (allowed for the most part with much discussion). My midwife said I should try to avoid metal detectors if possible. This was new to me, but she sent me with a note of explanation. One attendant in Vienna told me there was more radiation inside the plane than in the metal detector anyway... as I said, in all my reading about pregnancy rules I never heard something about metal detectors. Would appreciate the comments of anyone who knows what this is about. Anyway, I didn’t realize you could buy water again (for a hefty fee) once you got past the security check. So, I felt pretty stupid about asking everyone if I could keep my bottle. I do not know why they didn't just tell me, because I would not have worried about it so much if I'd known I could immediately purchase a new bottle. As I metnioned in an earlier post I am a chronic water drinker even when not pregnant... but regardless it all worked out. By the end of the trip I had a water bottle confiscated at each airport I visited, though they let me drink one full bottle in line in Vienna and keep the bottle for refilling later.

I flew through Vienna as there are no direct flights from AMS to Dubrovnik. The Dubrovnik airport is like the Valdosta airport, which was a welcome relief. I went via Austrian airlines. They were good—nice staff, they actually fed you on eevery flight even though they could have pretended it wasn’t quite mealtime. The flight between Vienna and Dubrov was not full—what a luxury to have empty seats nearby. We usually fly with KLM and they are often fully booked at any time of year. Good for them, bad for your knees. I arrived in Dubrovnik and got some kuna out of the ATM then caught a taxi to the hotel. The route is about ½ hour and all windy roads on the edges of hills overlooking the sea. It was really what I think of when I think "Mediterranean". It looks as if a vineyard or olive grove is around every corner, and as I understand most people have their own small vineyards. The landscape just made my heart sing. The Netherlands is very consistent and flat, so a hilly ocean scene was really thrilling to me. The taxi driver Niko offered to stop so I could take a photo of the old city from above, but I was too tired. I told him we’d do it on the way back (we did it on Saturday... photos to follow). There are several overlook points along the way with other taxis and their occupants getting the requisite Dubrovnik postcard shot.

My hotel was called Splendid and it was fine. I switched from the closet size "room overlooking the parking lot" to a room with a double bed overlooking the restaurant and ocean. That put my price up from 35 euros to a whopping 60 euros a night, but it was worth it. The hotel was safe and clean, the staff was outgoing and kind, and the view was indeed splendid. Here is a shot from the ocean side of the hotel.

Here is a shot of the beach in front of Spendid. It was quite small, and only a few bold die-hard swimmers/sunbathers were giving it a go. I imagine it is literally packed in summer. My driver told me repeatedly that April and September were the times to come. In the peak season the prices more than double, there are thousands upon thousands of overnight visitors, and Cruise ships drop off their loads for a day in the old city or in other areas-- so it sounds truly overwhelming.

I am staying near the conference site on the Lapad peninsula, across from the old city (which does not allow cars, has only 1 guest house, and hundreds of years ago the gates were “locked up” every night at dusk with a giant key).

The Lapad is hilly with winding roads and a string of hotels. The group that owns Splendid owns 6 other places on the same street—you just choose your level of cost and sign up. I chose Splendid because it was closest to Dubrovnik Palace, the 5 star, 140Euro a night (and that is the cheapest room at conference discount) place that is the conference site. It is within easy walking distance up the hill from Splendid.

I registered for the conference, received my dorky nametag and messenger bag, and found out when my presentation would happen. Then I headed back to Splendid for dinner. The restaurant here reminds me of a Morrison’s cafeteria—but with a pink décor. The servers are very nice and helpful—I call them the lunch ladies, because they all wear white shirts, black skirts, panty hose, and white socks with sneakers. When you say thank you, they also say thank you-- so there is a lot of thanking at every meal.

This is what I have learned: the portions are HUGE in Croatia and ‘shrimp cocktail’ means different things in different places. For example sometimes it can mean a mayo-based shrimp salad (swimming in mayo and paprika for color) served with an orange slice. Despite trying to figure out the menu, the hot meal hit the spot and I nearly fell asleep before the check came. Then off to bed

View from the 5-star Dubrovnik Palace

25 April 2007

Up early and downstairs for the breakfast portion of the ‘bed and breakfast’. It was pretty good—a big buffet and the option to sit outside on the terrace. I spent the time before my talk practicing. I am a stickler about having presentations that actually meet the time requirements. I do not like to “read from the power point” which takes running through it several times to be so comfortable that when you are more nervous (as I inevitably am when I stand up in front of a group) it still comes out clearly. There is also the non native audience to consider. I try to go slowly (hard when nervous) and enunciate because I was one of a handful of native English speakers at the event. After a few practices I headed up the hill to the fancy hotel. As I got close I immediately noticed a slew of police cars, and it was very intimidating. As fate would have it, I had been cheating the previous night at the last few questions in the International Herald Tribune crossword I brought from the flight. I didn’t know the answer to a clue “Syrian/Lebanese political group” so I had been google-ing variations of this. As I approached the hotel my split-second reaction was “Oh no, they are here to ask me questions”. Of course reality set in immediately and I knew that couldn’t be it. Nobody tracks such things, or at least if they do they probably discount it if you google for the “US Open 1984 golf champion” right after.

It is such a fancy hotel that my next thought was there must be a Croatian pop star staying there. I went into the conference and began to notice a LOT of guys in very dark suits with earpieces with little curly wires hanging down. There was even a guy checking nametags as you enter the “welcome” event. Then I realized there must be a politician coming for the water conference, but I was still clueless.

Long story short it was the President of Croatia. Yes, Stjepan Mesic—that President of Croatia. Surrounded by many other less-notable politicians (local mayor, county and regional officials) and his own mini-papparazzi crew that hovered around him like bees. He gave the welcoming address but I did not take his photo-- he was literally surrounded by photographers and such. Unfortunately (for me) the address was in Croatian, but I assume it was very friendly and welcoming. He is an enigmatic guy, not tall, compact and fit, short hair, no nonsense and very much looks like the leader of something. They did provide simultaneous translation of his speech (and the speeches of the other dignitaries) but I thought the headsets were for the Croatian people, because the conference papers said it would be in English with simultaneous Croatian translation.

I did borrow a headset later to hear a Croatian presentation eventually. It felt very UN to wear them. There are two little ladies in the booth—and they (clearly fluent in both) translate from English to Croatian for the most part, but the moment things change they switch and translate from Croatian to English. The funny thing is that they pass off to each other, I assume when they get tired. So you have been listening to one voice for the whole time and all of the sudden it is passed off to this ‘stranger’ -who you don’t even know- with a completely different voice. The politicians spoke and left, then there were keynote addresses for the rest of the day. I was exhausted by the end of the day and headed back to Splendid for dinner (cheese plate featuring Pag a famous local cheese, which is kind of pecorino-romano-ish) and more practicing then crashing out.

Extending our borders

I haven't posted in a while about James'- well development, I guess- not the stats from the Consultatie Bureau where he goes to get weighed and geprikt (prik is what they call the injections- a fitting term I find); but more how he is growing up. He is really turning a corner in his physical capabilities, speech, and level of independence recently.
For a while he was really 'discovering his own borders', as they say. It was amazing to watch him put one foot in front of the other and make his way up the steps or hold a spoon and get most of it in his mouth- it was a stage of curiousity and wonder now that I look back on it. Speaking of looking back- I never thought I would think I'd rather take care of a 6 month old- but now that I am chasing around an almost two year old I realise clearly how freakin easy that was- regardless of the sleepless nights.
James is now more in a stage of 'discovering Dad's borders'. He is still a cute and sweet little guy but there are new things making their way out- temper, whining, intentionally throwing hard objects...
Its all true.
Sometimes it is funny, though I try not to laugh at him, how furious he will get. His new personality manifests itself more though in just plain orneriness (seemingly just for the sake of being ornery). I will get him up from his nap and he will smile and chat - and then refuse to get out of his crib- so I will leave him in there and go do something and he will call out and laugh and then repeat the same process. Weird.
Or he will go absolutely mad trying to wear his klompen (wooden clogs) everywhere; normally a pretty agile walker/runner, these things are challenging and he will not give up on them- he is fine once they are on but they tend to fall off and then he has a real time trying to get back in them. If he even sees them out of the corner of his eye he will immediately sit down and take off his shoes.
We used to have a great time throwing the ball to the dogs at the park- but now the ball is just for him and he will throw it over the fence rather than share with the rest of the class. Its just a different sort of game.
His daycare ladies told me today how he refused the crust on his sandwhich; we laughed about that. They have a similar no-nonsense approach which makes me confident of their capabilities; 'the baker didn't make that for nothing' is the Dutch saying. Or as Dottie says- 'Doesn't your mother pay for the crusts?'
I am sure it is a stage like any other- and I never expected anything less from raising a kid- but I'll be glad when we can begin to communicate better. And I will be very glad when Katharine gets back- it is a slog trying to get it all done on your own, even for a few days. On the upside- since I can eat curried chicken burritos for five days straight (only one night of cooking), I used that extra time to finally finish the baluster on our staircase in the evenings. It still needs sanding and a couple coats of finish but it has made a huge difference in terms of feeling safe going upstairs. Katharine has the camera on her trip but I'll post pictures later this weekend.
Monday is Koninginnedag, Queen's Day, so the whole country is off or on their way to some vacation for the week- all the schools are out; we will probably just barbeque with the neighbors and go into the centrum to check out the crap- you are allowed to set up shop on the street on Queen's Day and sell anything you want which turns all the towns into huge flea markets- always fun to see.

Busy Days

We have thoroughly enjoyed the recent warm spring days-- we have been frequenting the children's farmyard near our house. Sometimes we arrive before the staff, and have the opportunity to watch the animals being fed their morning meal. They are very noisy when meal time approaches, and that is a lot of fun.
I (Katharine) head off to Croatia tomorrow for a water conference. I am really looking forward to Dubrovnik, which everyone highly recommends as a destination. Apparently it is a major summer travel spot, but I think going in April I will miss the crowds. Here are two photos of the city I found on the web:
For those who may not remember, Croatia is one republic of the former Yugoslavia, and lies across the Adriatic from Italy, a bit north of Greece. I have been busy trying to analyze the data for my dissertation and prepare my presentation, so I have not taken a lot of time to study the history of the region. I am afraid my knowledge goes only as deep as the Lonely Planet Croatia guide book, but it has been fascinating to learn about a corner of the world that is new to me. Croatia was a part of the Roman empire, has connections to Venice as a city-state, and then was joined with the other republics (Macedonia, Bosnia, Serbia, etc) by Tito.
I have also learned a lot about the wars there in the 1990s-- I never realized those conflicts were between two different types of Christian groups in some cases. Though apparently even the details of this Wikipedia link are disputed by the different sides involved (granted it is only Wikipedia, but I wanted to find a link that was not too overwhelming). Even the cursory coverage of the Lonely Planet Guide states that there were war crimes committed by both groups, and guide books as a rule do not focus on such things.
Dubrovnik was shelled heavily during the wars in the 1990s, but apparently made huge efforts (and used a lot of money-- ten million USD at the time) to use craftsmen and artisans to restore this ancient city. Fortunately the conference organizers have two tourist-y events planned for the participants: a boat cruise and a tour of the "old city". I will take my camera, and hope to have more to share next week. I am sure it will be wonderful.
In other news there is a possibility James and I may be heading to south Georgia for a month while Mike is gone. My mom was a little concerned about us being alone for 2 months with me pregnant. After a lot of thinking she realized even coming over or trying to send help would not really work. I think any visitor would spend the whole time adjusting and figuring out where to get what. So, long story short she has offered to fly us to GA from mid June-mid July. She has actually offered to bring us back for the entire time Mike is gone, but of course there is a limit to when I can travel while pregnant. I have searched endlessly on the web, and the average time is 36 weeks for limiting travel-- though each airline is different. Both KLM and Northwest (their US end carrier) state 36 weeks, even for international travel. Deep vein thrombosis is one risk, though that is a risk no matter how far along you are. With James as my travel companion I do not think it will be a problem to get up and walk every hour. I am also a water-drinking fanatic, even when not pregnant, and I know that helps curtail the risk of DVT. I never suffered from a swollen ankle, foot or wrist (or anything) when I was pregnant with James, which I chalk up to my water-drinking habits.
The travel limit is usually imposed not because of health risks, but because airlines do not want you going into labor while in the air. Legally they must divert to the nearest airport with a hospital, leading to I imagine a plane-full of angry travelers and huge costs. One website I read stated that this costs tens of thousands of dollars. I would be travelling in the 29-33 week range, so I hope this will not be an issue. I am calling the midwife to get approval, and calling the airline to triple check before buying the ticket.
Now, after all this information, we give you the star of the show: James sporting his summer casual wear, and sitting contentedly at Judith and Niels' place.

Frances Faith

Here is a photo of Marilois and Pablo's new little bean...

Photograph

Its probably a quirk of when I came of age, but I can't get Def Leppard's 'Photograph' out of my head. The daycare place where James goes had a photographer come by a couple of weeks ago and today they gave me two proofs today when I picked him up. They are good- but I still like a candid sort of homestyle shot. It is amazing that they can get these little temperamental whirlwinds to sit still long enough with a decent grin on their faces- and at least they didn't have him with his elbows propped on the fake log fence (it seems like every grammar school photo session had some fake fence...)
Anyway, without further ado- the first professional portraits-

Smiling-



and smiling slightly less.



I'm not sure they didn't have him tied down somehow...